By mid-morning, Kyoto's most famous lanes can be shoulder to shoulder. At seven, they belong to shopkeepers sweeping their steps and the occasional monk. It's the same city, just a much more peaceful version of it.
Where to start
Fushimi Inari is open around the clock, so it's easy to walk the vermilion gates in near-solitude if you arrive early. Go past the first crowded stretch and keep climbing. The Arashiyama bamboo grove is similarly best just after sunrise, and so are the stone-paved slopes of Higashiyama leading up towards Kiyomizu-dera.
Then, do the opposite
Once the crowds arrive, head away from them. Spend the middle of the day in a neighbourhood coffee shop, at Nishiki Market, or in one of the smaller temple gardens that rarely appears on a first-time itinerary. Return to the river at dusk, when Pontocho's lanterns come on.
Be a good guest
Kyoto's residents live with a lot of visitors. Stay out of private alleys, particularly in Gion, don't photograph people without asking, and carry your rubbish with you, because public bins are scarce.
The whole trick of Kyoto is simply this: shift your day by two hours. You'll get the temple, the garden and the atmosphere you came for, and you'll still have time for a second breakfast.
